1929 Creating Illusions of Slenderness

          The lines of the generously proportioned figure may be slenderized and made to appear much more attractive by attention to certain details.
          First, a corset or other restraining garment that will mold the figure into unbroken, smooth, flowing lines should be chosen. Underwear should be simple and smooth fitting, and outer garments should fit easily, for if too closely fitted, they reveal the contours and emphasize size.
          In designing gowns, strive for simple lines and avoid fussy decoration, large-patterned fabrics, and strong color contrasts. The dominant lines should be vertical rather than horizontal, and light and dark areas should run up and down. Keep steadily in mind the garment as a whole so that the various parts of the design may be correlated.
          These general principles should be observed in designing for all types of large figures, just what to do further to create an appearance of good proportion being explained and illustrated with reference to specific types.

For the short, stout, evenly proportioned figure, lines unbroken by much detail of cut or trimming are most desirable. Vertical and oblique lines, carrying the eye the full length of the costume, give the impression of greater height and slenderness.

Often the short, stout figure is full and round in back. To minimize this impression, lines that definitely break up the width, such as bands, folds, tucks, or panels, are effective. Diagonal and straight seam lines, appearing to merge, also are effective.

Large hips, a frequent figure defect, demand special consideration to supply the necessary balance in the upper portion of the figure, and every line should be studied with this in mind. In the present instance, the trimming line, emphasizing the surplice and the edge of the skirt front, tends definitely to divide the width of the figure, and by merging with the shoulder yoke, serves to increase the seeming width of the shoulders and thus to effect a balance. The lines of plaits in the skirt tend to break up the apparent width of the hips.

The woman whose back is broad and rounded across the shoulders and narrow through the hips, as at the right, must study the back of each garment carefully. To balance the upper part of the figure with the proportionately slenderer hips, vertical lines have been used to divide the upper width. Extending below the waist line, they tend to lengthen the effect of the upper portion of the garment and, in joining the oblique lines at the hip, the eye is carried across so that a balance is effected. The flare of the skirt is a further aid to proportion.

At the right is a figure that is narrow through the shoulders and broad across the hips. The vertical seam lines, dropping from the edges of the shoulders, as shown, are becoming to this type as they serve to modify the width and curve of the hips. The lines of the center panel, running parallel to these seam lines, together with the lines of the plaits, succeed in further breaking up the width across the hips. By allowing the panel to stop short of the shoulders, their apparent width is not diminished and balance is effected.

          The long, smooth-fitting sleeve is good for the large arm, but divided by lengthwise lines, as at the left, it is even more becoming.
          A pointed effect at the top of the sleeve narrows the shoulder and minimizes the heaviness of the upper arm.
          Lace or chiffon, used as shown, makes a gold sleeve for evening.

When the diaphragm or abdomen is enlarged, a long jabot or scarf, as at the right, aids in concealment. It must not, however, be of too conspicuous color or bulky proportions. A loose belt that does not cause a definite indentation is helpful in concealing the abdominal curve. A V-line that dips at waist or hip gives an impression of slenderness.