A Reversible Silk Coat

from Fashion Service Magazine June 1927, pages 10 and 16.

           When natural Kasha lines black satin in such way as to make the wrap reversible, the result is this unusually attractive coat suitable for many needs. With the silk side out, its straight lines deftly broken by the arrangement of tiers, one has a dressy warp suitable for afternoon occasions, while by simply reversing the garment and belting it in, it becomes a practical sports coat, as shown in the small illustrations.

           Besides its modishness and versatility, this coat is very easily made. Merely procure a straight-line foundation guide, the tiers and the cuffs being designed on the various sections as shown in the diagram at the lower left, and for the average figure purchase 3 ¾ yards of 40-inch silk and 3 yards of Kasha.

          Cut the fabrics exactly alike except to allow 1 ½ inches more on the silk fronts than on the kasha for the turn. Also, on the kasha, place the back-pattern piece ½ inch from the fold, the extra material to be taken up in small tucks turned to the wrong side.

          After cutting the coat proper, mark on the pattern pieces for the satin tiers. Draw the lines that indicate them 3 ½ inches apart, the lower one 3 ½ inches above the lower edge of the coat, as shown in the diagram. About 1 ½ inches above the center line, draw a dotted line to provide extra width in the lower tier. In the same way, draw the tiers for the left front, planning them so that they are shorter and just meet those on the right front at the closing, and then those on the back, which are straight. For the flaring cuff, mark lines as shown, 4 inches apart at the seam and curved upward to 5 ½ inches at the center.
          To a paper placed under your marked cutting guide, trace the lowest and the dotted line for the lower tier. To another paper, trace the center unbroken line and the top line for the other. Cut on the traced lines. Follow the same plan for the left-side front and the back, and trace and cut the cuffs.
          To obtain the flare, slash the front-tier patterns and spread at the slashes to give a circular effect. The back tiers are straight. For the cuffs, slash from the top downwards, and spread as shown. Cut the tiers and cuffs in trial material first, remembering to make seam allowances.

          Assemble each coat by basting; then slip one inside the other, satin side out, and baste around the neck edge and down the fronts, bringing the satin over on the kasha to form a band 1 ½ inches wide, as shown.
          After fitting the silk side, noting carefully the position and appearance of the tiers, revers the coat and fit the kasha, marking the length of the coats and the sleeves carefully. Be sure that both are perfectly even and of exactly the same length.
           Stitch all seams plain and press them open; also, stitch the tucks at the neck line of the kasha.
           Next, cut the satin tiers, join the sections, and finish their lower edges with a 1-inch facing of light-weight silk and their upper edges with pinking. Attach the lower tier with catch-stitching and the upper one by machine, letting it extend upward with its right side to the right side of the garment as you stitch it and then turning it down so that the stitching is concealed. Line the cuffs with the coat fabric and slip-stitch them in place.
          Then insert the sleeves in each coat separately. Turn up the hems separately, too, and slip-stitch them in place. Baste the coats together again. Turn up the hems of the sleeves, and slip-stitch the edges together.
          Slip-stitch the raw edge of the kasha to the satin at the fronts where the satin will turn; turn in the raw edge of the 1 ½ -inch allowance, baste it flat, and slip-stitch to the kasha.
          Slip-stitch a fitted facing of the satin, 1 ½ inches wide, to the kasha collar; and join the satin and kasha collars, leaving the neck edge open. Apply by stitching through a single thickness to the coat, with its kasha side to the kasha side of the coat. Turn in the satin side and slip-stitch to the coat.
          Add a loop and button for the closing. Finish the 1 ½-inch kasha belt, stitched in self-color, with a smoked-pearl buckle.