Designer December 1912, pg. 96, 97, 102        #6483.6481

     There are any number of recommendations for the ladies’ coat 6483. To state it as an anti-climax, I may say that the perfection of line is in itself sufficient, but there are several individual features that deserve recognition. First, the angle of the closing is excellent. The fronts slope gracefully to a low closing, and the fastening is effected by a single button, or, on the dressier suit, with a braided frog. Secondly, the vest is another interesting feature. In the severer braid-bound view it gives an ultra-smart, English look, and as shown on the opposite page adds a dressy note. Thirdly, the variety of collars is ample for every taste and need. For a strictly tailored suit, the notched style is the proper choice. However, some women seem to feel a little hesitancy in adjusting it, so there is an appropriate substitute in the shawl type which is very simple to handle. The newest style is achieved in the Directoire, which is the third style of collar that is offered. The model is cut in either a thirty-six or thirty-two inch length at the center back. Two-seam full-length coat sleeves are placed in the armhole with slight gathers, or flatly by shrinking out the fullness. Serge, broadcloth, whip-cord, stripes, velvet and velveteen are appropriate materials. Wool velvet is much used and also zibeline. There are various suitable novelty woolens.
     A woman of medium size requires three yards of forty-four-inch material for the coat in thirty-six-inch length, or two and three-eighth yards fifty inches wide for the thirty-two-inch length. One yard of twenty-four-inch contrasting material for the shawl collar and cuffs, one-quarter of a yard of twenty-seven-inch contrasting material for the Robespierre collar, one and three-eighth yards of twenty-inch contrasting material for the vest or four and seven-eighth yards of braid are required.
     Nos. 6484 and 6481 as combined on page 97 require in the medium size six and three-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch velveteen and three-quarters of a yard of fifty-inch broadcloth.
     Design 6483, in eight sizes, thirty-two to forty-six inches bust measure, fifteen cents. 

     Ladies’ skirt 6481 has the optional bias trimming-bands which promise to be very popular. It is cut in five gores with a slightly raised waistline or a dart-fitted regulation one, and at the back there is a box plait which may be stitched only to flounce depth when the lower edge measurement is two and five-eighth yards in the medium size, or the whole way down which makes the skirt a half yard narrower. The inserted section at the lower part of the front offers the use of contrasting material. Round and shorter lengths are the possible finishes.
     For the skirt with the bands, a woman of medium size requires four yards of material without a distinct up and down thirty-six inches wide, one yard thirty-six inches wide for the bands, and seven-eighths of a yard of contrasting material twenty inches wide. For the skirt without the bands, three and three-eighth yards without a distinct up and down forty-four inches wide are required.
     Nos. 6480 and 6481 as combined on page 103 require three and three-eighth yards of serge fifty-four inches wide, one and three-eighth yards of moiré twenty-four inches wide, and three-quarters of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the medium size.
     Design 6481, in eight sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-six inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer November 1912, pg. 18, 29   #6447.6448

     The surplice blouse 6447 is shown in the small view made of checked silk with a chemisette of lace and the one-seam sleeve in full length darted at the forearm. This gives you a splendid idea for a simple waist for general wear. To complete a smart tailor-made suit, silk or satin might have the revers of lace added. And both of these versions are entirely suitable to be joined to an appropriate skirt. A very lovely costume developed in this way is shown on the opposite page. Crepe meteor was used, with shadow lace trimmings. In this dressier guise the slightly open neck and shorter-length sleeve are preferable. There is a lining which may or may not be used.
     Taffeta, striped, checked and plaid silks, bengaline, moiré, crepe de Chine and charmeuse are all used for the suit blouse and the costume also. Fine serge, wool repp, poplin and velveteen are suggested for this latter usage, with trimmings of lace or a contrasting fabric.
     A woman of medium size requires three and five-eighth yards of material twenty-seven inches side, two and three-eight yards thirty-six inches wide or the same amount forty-four inches wide. Three-eighths of a yard of contrasting material twenty-seven inches wide for the Robespierre collar and three-quarters of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the collar and chemisette are required.
     Design 6447, in eight sizes, from thirty-two to forty-six inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.  

     Drapery is certainly enjoying an undisputed reign this season and it requires much cleverness on the designer’s part to evolve new designs. The ladies’ skirt 6448 has a novel treatment in its two-piece tunic slightly draped in cascade fashion at the front. The notion of extending only on the right side is exceedingly attractive. The skirt is cut in three pieces and tuck-seamed at the back. There is a slightly high waistline or a dart-fitted regulation one. Though the tunic is not at all too dressy for tailored uses, it may be omitted, and there is still a very smart skirt of good lines suitable for general wear separately or for part of a hacking dress. A medium sweep is used for afternoon and evening and a round length measures two and one-eighth yards at its lower edge in the medium size. A still shorter length is also provided.
     For a separate skirt or general-wear suit, serge, cheviot, tweed and mixtures are used. The dressy tailor-made utilizes Ottoman silk, bengaline, silk-and-wool repp, moiré and velveteen. These fabrics also make the costume, as do charmeuse, crepe meteor and broches.
     A woman of medium size require for the skirt with the tunic four and one-half yards of material thirty-six inches wide without a distinct up and down, or three and seven-eighth yards forty-four inches wide; with a distinct up and down four yards fifty inches wide. The skirt without the tunic requires two and one-quarter yards of material fifty-four inches wide without a distinct up and down.
     Nos. 6447 and 6448 as combined on the opposite page require in the medium size five yards of crepe meteor forty-four inches wide, seven-eighths of a yard of all-over lace eighteen inches wide, and five-eighths of a yard of net eighteen inches wide.
     Design 6448, in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer September 1912, pg. 266, 277
#6317.6318

     Design 6317 makes a most fetching afternoon gown when it is combined with the skirt 613 as shown on the opposite pate. Rose-colored crepe de Chine is used with a vest of white satin, the lining faced in a French outline with net. Black satin makes the collar, which continues to the waistline in the back. The one-seam sleeves are cut in three-quarter length and finished with a ruffle. To correspond with the high neck, they may be long. The stout figure may hesitate to wear the large collar, so it is often omitted, leaving a surplice blouse which is one of the most becoming styles for the full figure. The design is by no means limited to costume use. It will be entirely appropriate and lovely for the suit blouse made of any suitable combination of materials, taffeta, charmeuse, crepe meteor or corded silk.
     A woman of medium size requires for the waist with the large collar two and three-quarter yards of material thirty-six inches wide, with five-eighths of a yard of lace or net eighteen inches wide for the collar and yoke; without the large collar, two and five-eighth yards twenty-seven inches wide.
     Design 6317, in eight sizes, from thirty-two to forty-six inches bust measure, price fifteen cents. 

     Latest advice from Paris tells us both tunics and draperies are used, and the skirt No. 6318 is in accordance with this dictum. There is a two-piece tunic in slightly high or regulation waistline, tuck-edged at the seams. The right side is lengthened by an extra section, and a looped-up sash, gaining somewhat the effect of the pannier, commences at the left side of the front and extends to the back. This makes a skirt suitable for costume use only, but the omission of the drapery leaves a very smart design for the tailored skirt. There are either gathers or darts at the top of the tunic. A three-piece foundation skirt is finished in round or shorter length, or with medium sweep. The lower edge in the medium size measures about two and one-eighth yards in round length. The model closes at the back.
     A woman of medium size requires four and seven-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide without a distinct up and down, three and one-half yards thirty-six inches wide for the foundation skirt, and two yards of contrasting material twenty inches wide for the sash drapery which is made double unless ribbon is used.
     Nos. 6317 and 6318, as illustrated on the opposite page, require in the medium size six yards of crepe de Chine forty-four inches wide, two yards of satin twenty inches wide for the sash, seven-eighths of a yard of satin thirty-six inches wide for the large collar, five-eighths of a yard of satin twenty inches wide for the vest, and three-eighths of a yard of forty-five-inch net for the yoke.
     Design 6318, in five sizes, twenty-two to thirty inches waist measure, fifteen cents.

Designer September 1912, pg. 266, 267
#6298

     Number 6298 would make a lovely silk or cloth dress for the coming season, and, as shown in the small sketch, may also be used for evening wear. The blouse in itself is most simple and derives its smartness from its cleverly cut lines. There is a high, slightly open or round neck, and the one-seam sleeves are in full length with a deep dart at the forearm, or finished shorter. The fronts of the five-piece tunic are draped in pannier style to the sides, which in turn meet the back panel. The foundation skirt is composed of three pieces and has the choice of round length, which in the medium size measures about two an one-eighth yards, or a shorter finish, and there is also a graceful sweep. The skirt joins the waist at a slightly high waistline and the design is made with a lining.
      Gray silk poplin and blue charmeuse with a lace collar make the dress on the opposite page, but any soft materials in cloth or silk could be similarly used. There is a Standard transfer design for the embroidery illustrated on the dainty evening dress shown in the small sketch below.
     A woman of medium size requires seven and one-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide, and one-half yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the vest.
     As illustrated on the opposite page, the medium size requires three and one-quarter yards of poplin forty-four inches wide, two and three-eighth yards of charmeuse forty-four inches wide, and one-quarter of a yard of all-over lace eighteen inches wide.
     Design 6298, six sizes, thirty-tow to forty-two inches bust measure, fifteen cents.

Designer December 1912, pg. 98,99
#6512

     No matter how expert a seamstress a woman may be, she is glad to find a smart design that is easily made, and that is what 6512 offers. The tucked blouse and the soft plaits or gathered back of the skirt are new, the collar extending over the shoulder very recent, and above all the lines of the dress are good. The blouse has a high or slightly open neck and full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves made in either of two styles. The almost universally used plain style has a deep dart at the forearm and the gathered style is finished by a deep cuff. The three or four piece skirt is attached at a normal waistline under a deep crush girdle, for which a narrower one may be substituted if it is more becoming. Round or shorter lengths measuring about two and one-eighth yards at the lower edge in the medium size are the finishes. Taffeta, crepe meteor, charmeuse, poplin, moiré, serge, ratine and sponge cloth are the materials suggested.
     A woman of medium size requires for the dress with the shorter sleeves and four-piece skirt, four and five-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide and three-eighths of a yard of net eighteen inches wide for the chemisette and one yard of silk twenty inches side for the girdle and the sash ends.
     To make the dress as it is illustrated on the opposite page a woman of medium size requires three and three-quarter yards of blue crepe meteor forty-four inches wide and seven-eighths of a yard of gold-colored satin twenty-seven inches wide for the collar, chemisette and girdle.
     Design 6512, in seven sizes, from thirty-tow to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     Draped effects are remarked not only on the skirts of many lovely gowns, but also on the waists which are seen with them. They stamp a gown as ganz modern whenever they are used, and in a waist give a charming softness most flattering to the figure. They make a waist seem dressy, too, without the expense of trimming. In design 5668, one side of the waist is softly draped under the other, leaving an opening in front which gives a fashionable vest section and is modishly one-sided. This opening is filled by a yoke-facing on the French lining, which may be in high neck with a collar having a straight or curved lower edge, or French neck. The sleeves of the waist are the new long tight ones, dart-fitted below the elbow, or they may be cut off in shorter length. A rolling collar reminding one of the Robespierre may be used or not.
     Charmeuse, meteor, crepe de Chine, moiré, silk poplin, satin, messaline, fine cashmere, etamine, voile and velveteen are pretty materials for the design, which may be made as a separate waist or attached to a skirt as a one-piece dress. All-over lace, white satin or moiré will be lovely for the collar, and a fine net or all-over lace for the yoke-facing.
     For a woman of medium size, one yard and three-quarters of material thirty-six inches wide and five-eighths of a yard of net forty inches wide for the straight collar and yoke-facing will be required for the waist with full-length sleeves.
     Design 5668 may be obtained in eight sizes, from thirty-two to forty-six inches bust measure, price fifteen cents. 

     Although it seems unlikely that extreme forms of the pannier will take with the general public, it has been proved that modified, graceful versions are acceptable. Many women are wearing them on their afternoon and evening dresses, and their figures lose none of their lissome slenderness when the material is suitably soft. In meteor, charmeuse, crepe de Chine, pompadour silk, chiffon, silk voile, marquisette, laces and nets, design 5669 will be lovely and graceful, to say nothing of being indisputably new and smart. It is not hard to make, for the tunic is in two pieces, simply draped in pannier effect over a three-piece skirt. The waistline may be slightly raised or regulation, the length is clearing and the design may be made as a separate skirt or attached to a waist as a one-piece dress. It measures about one yard and seven-eighths at the lower edge in medium size. The lower front corner may be in square outline or cutaway in the pretty French fashion.
     For a woman of medium size, four yards and one-eighth of material forty inches wide or one yard and three-quarters forty-four inches wide for the tunic, with two yards and one-eighth forty-four inches wide for the skirt, will be required.
     Design 5669 may be obtained in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator May 1912, pg. 394, 395
#5417

     With one fresh and lovely white dress in her Summer wardrobe, a woman can accept any invitation. Design 5417 gives a charming picture of a new French model which may be reproduced without great expense. The skirt may be made of embroidered flouncing as both the upper part, tucked or gathered at a slightly raised waistline, and the flounce have straight lower edges. The waist then may be of lawn or batiste and the bertha trimmed with Valenciennes lace. Or the bertha may be omitted and the blouse-waist more simply trimmed by its tucks. For some sprays of embroidery a Butterick transfer may be obtained. The neck may be high with a collar straight or shaped at the lower edge or French square and the sleeves may be in full or shorter length. The attached skirt is in clearing length with or without an inverted plait at the back, and measures about two yards and one-quarter at the lower edge without the plait. Batiste, mull and net are suitable.
     For a woman of medium size, five yards and three-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide will be required for the dress with bertha.
     Design 5417 may be obtained in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer April 1912, pg. 396, 397
#5993

      Another costume that is most lovely is given you in No. 5993. On page 397 it is shown developed in a beautiful soft gray-violet taffeta – at least the bolero and draped tunic are of this shade and the lower part of the blouse and the side facing on the skirt are of gray taffeta. A dainty net yoke completes the costume.
     The design has a lining in high neck which may be omitted. The blouse is plain; it can be faced with net in the yoke outline and made with a standing collar, or cut in a dainty V shape. The gathered sleeve is in full length, if you wish, or finished without the deep cuff and gathered into a puff about four inches deep. A lace frill completes it. This type of sleeve is extremely popular now, and one sees it on many of the imported models. The plait on the shoulder of the bolero offers a pleasing fullness. Attached at a slightly high waistline is a skirt with a medium sweep. This skirt has a one-piece foundation, whose lower edge, when finished in round length, measures about two and one-quarter yards, also a one-piece tunic effectively draped at the left side. Draperies are very good this season, and this simple one could be successfully carried out by the home dressmaker. On the foundation skirt at the left side there is a facing which can be made of a contrasting material or an all-over lace. It is used when the tunic is not transparent and the foundation is made of a lining material.
     For very formal occasions, a heavy white satin might form the blouse and the draped tunic, which may be caught at the side by a cabochon of rhinestones or pearls. Lace showing at the opening of the tunic and forming the bolero would add a beautiful trimming. Crepe de Chine is lovely made in the same way. A very attractive afternoon frock is ornamented with hand-embroidery or appliqué on the bolero, the cuffs of the long sleeve and on the left side of the tunic. A lace or net yoke completes the costume, or you may use the open neck here also if you wish.
     Chiffon with a satin foundation is often fashioned as the taffeta dress shown on the opposite page. Perhaps these suggestions seem more “dressy” than you wish. Simpler afternoon gowns are often made of voile or marquisette.
     A woman of medium size will require three and three-quarter yards of satin thirty-six inches wide, with three and one-quarter yards of lace eighteen inches wide for the bolero and for side facing, and four and one-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch material for foundation. If the whole costume is made of one material it will require five and one-quarter yards of material thirty-six inches wide, with one-half of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the collar and facing in the yoke outline.
     If it is made as shown on page 397, the woman of medium size will require three and seven-eighth yards of violet taffeta thirty-six inches wide, with one and seven-eighth yards of gray taffeta for the facing on the skirt, the lower part of the blouse and sleeves, five-eighths of a yard of net forty inches wide for the collar, facing in the yoke outline and for the frills on the sleeves.
     Design 5993, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer November 1912, pg. 16, 17
#6425

     Moiré, crepe meteor, charmeuse, crepe de Chine, chiffon cloth, taffeta and marquisette will make the ladies’ dress 6425 for afternoon, and may be used for the evening gown, too, with the addition of nets, laces, veilings and the different broches. The full-length or shorter one-seam sleeve is in one with the blouse, which has a high, French or open neck. Over this is worn an over blouse. The skirt is attached at a slightly high waistline, and consists of a very gracefully draped four-piece tunic tuck-seamed at the back, and a three- piece foundation skirt. This may have a medium sweep, but for formal evening wear is usually finished in a round length, measuring about two and one-eighth yards in the medium size, and the sweep is carried by the separate sixty-inch train in an attractive fish-tail outline. For informal occasions a length a little shorter than clearing is entirely proper. The model closes at the back.
     A woman of medium size requires for the dress as illustrated in the small front view five and three-quarter yards of material forty-four inches wide, five-eighths of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide for the collar and facing in yoke outline, two and one-eighth yards of edging, and four and one-quarter yards of material twenty-seven inches wide for the foundation.
     As illustrated on the opposite page, the medium size requires four and five-eighth yards of taffeta thirty-six inches wide, seven-eighths of a yard of all-over lace forty inches wide, three and seven-eighth yards of lace edging and three and one-half yards of material thirty-six inches wide.
     Design 6425, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer November 1912, pg. 16, 17
#6417.6418

     Number 6417, a ladies’ waist, presents a delightful, easily achieved drapery. Starting at the left shoulder, where a chiffon rose or buckle or an ornament secures it, it loops softly over the left shoulder and finally terminates at the waistline in the center back. Its fullness at the front is distributed in small tucks. A blouse with low round neck has the body and cap sleeve in one. In this version it is admirable for the evening gown, and for afternoon use there is a short guimpe with high or French neck and two styles of full-length or shorter one-seam sleeves. One fits the arm quite snugly and the other has some fullness which is gathered into a band. The French lining makes a well-fitting foundation for the waist, which is finished with a peplum or a short extension.
     Charmeuse, crepe meteor, crepe de Chine, moiré, printed silks, chiffon, all-over laces, nets, veilings and brocades may be used for the blouse of the afternoon or evening gown. The beading illustrated on the second small front view is a pretty decoration easily carried out by using a Standard transfer design.
     A woman of medium size requires, as illustrated in the second front view, five yards of material twenty-seven inches wide, with five-eighths of a yard of lace eighteen inches wide; or, as shown in the small back view, one and one-eighth yards of material forty or forty-four inches wide for the waist, one and one-half yards of material twenty or more inches wide for the drapery, and five-eighths of a yard of net forty inches wide. The guimpe requires three-quarters of a yard of material thirty-six inches wide.
     Design 6417, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.  

     The dictum of the French dressmaker is drapery for afternoon and evening gowns, and what could be more in accordance with the lovely brocades and laces, or more becoming to the figure? Number 6418 is an advanced, though not extreme, interpretation. A one-piece tunic gains its undulating outline by three tucks which extend just across the front, thus draping it up. It falls over a four-piece foundation skirt, whose front gores meet in square outline or curve open slightly in a most Frenchy way. This slight opening at the feet is remarked on many imported models. On the formal gown the medium sweep is to be preferred, but for other uses there are round and shorter lengths which measure about two yards in the medium size. The design provides the graceful, slightly high waistline, or a scantily gathered normal one. Becomingness will govern your choice.
     Moiré, the new poplin, and other corded silks of the plain and moiré variety, silk-and-wool repp, chiffon broadcloth, a combination of materials, charmeuse, crepe meteor and crepe de Chine, are used for the skirt of an afternoon dress. The three last-named tissues, brocades and combination of lace with satins or chiffon, or of chiffon with satin, are the medium for fashioning exquisite evening gowns.
     A woman of medium size requires four and three-quarter yards of material twenty-seven inches wide, or three and three-quarter yards thirty-six inches wide without a distinct up and down. With a distinct up and down, three yards fifty inches wide are required. Two and seven-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide are necessary for the foundation skirt.
     Nos. 6417 and 6418, as combined on the opposite page, require for a woman of medium size two and one-half yards of rose-pink charmeuse forty-four inches wide for the drapery, tunic and sash ends, two and three-eighth yards of Pompadour chiffon forty-five inches wide for facing the foundation skirt and for the waist, two and seven-eighth yards of material thirty-six inches wide for the foundation, and one and one-eighth yards of crystal-bead fringe to trim the edge of the sleeves.
     Design 6418, in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.