Designer November 1910, pg. 17
#4994.5004

     A Semi-fitted coat of excellent lines and which is suitable for either separate or suit development is shown in the model No. 4994.
     While the model is cut in thirty-four-inch length, provision is made for cutting the garment in twenty-nine-inch, the measure being taken at the center back. A notched collar is included in the model, or the coat can be finished in collarless style and trimmed with braid or fancy banding. The two-seam sleeves offer the choice of two styles of development, either plain or gathered at the top. Both the pockets and cuffs can be omitted, as well as the facing in either length.
     Cheviot, broadcloth, homespun, diagonal, serge, Venetian and striped suitings are among the many appropriate materials that can be used to advantage in the construction of this coat.
     A woman of medium size will require of material with distinct up and down for the coat in thirty-four-inch length, six and one-quarter yards of twenty-seven-inch, three and five-eighth yards of forty-four-inch, or three and one-eighth yards of material fifty inches wide. The coat in twenty-nine-inch length will require five and one-half yards of twenty-seven-inch, or two and seven-eighth yards of fifty-inch.
Design 4944, in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.
     No matter how many dainty frocks a woman may number among her clothes, a smart tailored suit is always one of the principal requisites, as there are many occasions in the life of the average woman that call for just this type of garment.
     The skirt No. 5004 that is shown here will be found of great value in planning a tailored suit or for wear with separate waists. The length may be round or shorter, whichever is found the most becoming, and the closing at either the front of back. The model also gives the choice of inverted plait or habit back. The upper part is cut in five gores with a panel front, the side and back gores being lengthened by a slightly circular flounce. The trimming band is an up-to-date feature and shows the newest position, but need not be used if the plainer development is preferred.
     Cheviot, serge, diagonal, broadcloth, homespun, mixed and basket-woven cheviots are among the fashionable and well-wearing materials that can be used.
     A woman of medium size will require of material without distinct up and down, four and five-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, or three and one-eighth yards of forty-four-inch. With distinct up and down three and one-eighth yards of material fifty inches wide will be required.
     Design 5004, in seven sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-four inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer August 1910, pg. 208, 209
#4818.4831

     One of the smartest designs of the season for a blouse-waist is pictured in No. 4818, that in spite of its effective and elaborate appearance is simply and easily made.
     A well-shaped collar is provided when the waist is to be made with high neck, although the lining is perforated for the open style that is so generally worn. Two decidedly attractive types of sleeve may be chosen from: the one-seam leg-o’-mutton that has many adherents and is especially well adapted for general wear, or a fancy sleeve that at once suggests limitless varieties in the way of trimming and developing. Either one of these may be made in shorter length. The two plaits that extend from the shoulder to the waistline both front and back may be stitched in tuck effect, if desired, to any becoming depth. The peplum, that need not necessarily be used, is plaited to correspond with the waist, and gives a decidedly smart appearance to the waist. The prettily-shaped fancy collar may be either of silk, satin or lace and trimmed with soutache or braid of wider width.
     Combined with the skirt No. 4831, and extremely effective toilet may be developed in blue-and-white foulard. For separate wear, shantung, messaline and satin are suitable.
     For constructing this design, appropriate materials can be purchased in widths of twenty-seven-inch, thirty-six-inch and forty-four-inch. A woman of medium size will require three and one-half yards of twenty-seven, or two and one-eighth yards of forty-four-inch material.
     Design 4818, in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     The woman who is planning a serviceable dress on the well-liked semi-princess order, or who requires a separate skirt for wear with shirt-waists or those of higher pretensions, will find the model No. 4831 invaluable, as it is equally well adapted for either purpose, and my be used with excellent results for silk and woolen materials.
     The skirt is nine-gored, and if desired can be made in the shorter length that is in such good style this season, although the garment is cut in the round length that many women find the most becoming. The plaits are stitched to a becoming depth, and the skirt may be closed at either the front or back. The trimming band may be placed about on a line with the knees, thus giving the new effect, or sewn a short distance from the lower edge in the regulation manner.
     Linen, repp, washable poplin, crash, and pique are among the tub fabrics that can be used, while the woman who prefers a skirt of woolen materials can use serge, broadcloth, henrietta, cashmere and panama.
     When intended for costume development, foulard, pongee, messaline, eolienne, veiling, taffeta, henrietta and cashmere may be employed, the waist No. 4818 being an excellent aid in carrying out this idea.
     A woman of medium size will require for the skirt without band, six and three-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch, four and seven-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch, or four and one-eighth yards of material forty-four inches wide. The band requires one and one-quarter yards of twenty-seven-inch, one yard of thirty-six-inch, or one yard of forty-four-inch.
     Design 4831, in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty-two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator January 1910, pg. 10,11
#3556

     The novel-shaped yoke and sleeve outlines give this dress (3556) a distinction of its own and are sure to appeal to the woman who likes things different. The dress is closed at the back and is made with the medium sweep or in the clearing length. In the latter length the lower edge of the flounce measures about four yards.
     The seven-gored upper part of the dress is made with a French lining which may be used as a guimpe if desired. These guimpes are always very pretty for a semi-dressy gown and are made of all-over lace and chiffon, the yoke and cuffs of the former, and the tucker and full part of the sleeves of the latter. The chiffon should match the dress material or blend well with it to give the best effect, and for this dress any of the soft materials, as cashmere, crepe shantung, messaline and silk serges are very pretty. These materials are firm enough for the upper part and yet sufficiently soft to drape prettily in either the plaited or gathered flounce. To outline the yoke and sleeve edges, velvet or satin a trifle darker than the dress material would be very effective.
     For a dress designed for informal occasions when a little low neck may be worn, this dress might be finished with the Dutch round neck and shorter sleeves. Light materials, as batiste and delicate shades of lawn, are very dainty for these occasions and are appropriate for this dress.
     To make this dress for a medium-sized woman five yards and one-eighth of material forty-four inches wide, with five-eighths yard of chiffon forty-five inches wide, and one yard and an eighth all-over lace eighteen inches wide would be required.
     Design 3556 may be had in seven sizes, from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer July 1910, pg. 152, 153
#4787

     For the development of a dressy and still thoroughly practical style of dress, nothing could be prettier than the model No. 4787 that is presented here, and which despite its rather elaborate appearance is in reality of simple construction, and easily made by the amateur dressmaker.
     The garment is made with a lining that may be in high neck or in the fashionable open style that is greatly in vogue and is appropriate for all occasions. The choice of two styles of sleeve is given, the one-seam leg-o’-mutton or bishop sleeve, provision being made for the shorter length that is so comfortable and becoming a fashion. The over-blouse is cut with the body and sleeve caps in one, the pretty shaping of the cap giving a novel touch to the garment. When desired, the trimming of the waist may follow the line of the seam, which extends from the shoulder to the edge of the sleeve cap, as shown in the illustration, although this is, of course, simply a matter of taste. The foundation skirt has a five-gored upper part to which is joined a circular flounce. The one-piece tunic may be worn hanging free, or caught up in an effective draped style under a separate panel.
     Shantung, foulard, messaline and crepe de Chine are among the suitable fabrics.
     Materials that would be suitable for this model can be purchased in widths of twenty-seven-inch, thirty-six-inch and forty-four-inch. A woman of medium size will require eight and five-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, six and three-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch, or six yards of material forty-four inches wide.
     Design 4787, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer August 1910, pg. 208, 209
#4806.4855

     A coat on the well-liked semi-fitted order is shown in the model offered here (No. 4806) that is excellent for a tailored costume or for the construction of a separate coat.
     The coat is in the short length that is so fashionable this season, measuring twenty-eight inches at the center back. The woman who favors the notched collar will find that style provided for, while the collarless fashion is always in good style, and is probably a simpler method for the inexperienced sewer to adopt. With a trimming of braid following the outline of the neck and fronts of the coat, a very effective garment may be constructed with very little labor. The fronts may be in two outlines, either straight or in the snappy cutaway effect that gives such a decidedly smart look to the garment. The sleeves given are of the regulation two-seam coat variety, a separate upper portion being given that may be gathered at the top, or, if preferred, the sleeve may be fitted in without any fullness whatever. The cuffs make a pretty adjunct to the coat, particularly when the notched collar is used, the two being made of similar material, check being a popular fabric for this effect.
     Any of the heavy-weight washable materials may be used, while serge, cheviot, broadcloth and tweed are also appropriate.
     The materials most suitable for this construction are to be found in widths of twenty-seven inches, forty-four inches and fifty inches. A woman of medium size sill require of material with distinct up and down four and one-quarter yards of twenty-seven-inch, two and three-quarter yards of forty-four-inch, or two and three-eighth yards of material fifty inches wide.
     Design 4806, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

     The new fashions in skirts, that show a decided return to the flounce effects that formerly enjoyed such vogue, are without question a radical improvement and still preserve the scanty width at the lower edge demanded by the present styles, without the exaggeration that spoils many an otherwise attractive garment.
     In the model (No. 4855) that is shown here an exceptionally good-looking and practical style is given that embodies the best features of the type, and is not too extreme to meet the needs of the average woman. While the garment is made in the round length, it may be shortened to any desired length by the woman who finds this style more becoming. The closing is a matter of taste, as it may be finished at either front or back. The six-gored upper part is cut with a plaited panel back that may be stitched down to the flounce, or released at the regulation depth that is generally used for this purpose. The front and side gores are lengthened by a one-piece flounce that has a particularly attractive and out-of-the-ordinary outline at the upper edge.
     The various firm weaves of washable materials, as linen, repp, poplin, crash and duck, may be used for this skirt, which makes an ideal garment for wear with the ever-popular shirt-waist. It is also equally well adapted for the construction of a tailored suit in linen, pongee, serge or cheviot.
     A woman of medium size will require of material without distinct up and down four and three-quarter yards of twenty-seven-inch, or three and one-eighth yards of material forty-four inches wide. With distinct up and down, two and three-quarter yards of fifty-inch will be required.
     Design 4855, in six sizes, from twenty-two to thirty two inches waist measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator July 1910, pg. 27
#3972.3958

Back view and information not available.

Does anyone have page 25-26 of this issue?

Designer May 1910, pg. 16,17
#4627

     Another effective design for a semi-princess dress is shown in the model No. 4627, which is particularly pretty in silks or washable fabrics.
     The dress may be in round or shorter length, and the waist with high or open neck. The choice of two styles of sleeves is given, both bishop and one-seam leg-o’-mutton that may be made in elbow length. The skirt has a five-gored tucked upper part with a straight gathered flounce, that is excellent for the use of embroidery flouncing, which is in high favor this season.
     A woman of medium size will require nine and three-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, seven and one-quarter yards of thirty-six-inch or five and five-eighth yards of material forty-four inches wide, with twelve yards of insertion. Or, if with flouncing four and three-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch material with four and one-eighth yards of flouncing thirteen inches deep will be required.
     Design 4627, in five sizes, from thirty-two to forty inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Delineator April 1910, pg. 280, 281
#3767.3715

     A close rival to the popular princess gowns will be found in the semi-princess dresses, most of these being made by joining a waist and skirt together in semi-princess style. The pretty dress on the opposite page was made by attaching waist 3767 and skirt 3715, and developing this combination in crepe de Chine. These were designed especially to be made together, and, though appropriate for separate wear as well, carry out the popular Russian style.
     The waist (3767) consists of an over-blouse with the Russian closing and a French lining which may be used as a guimpe. One of the attractive features of the model is the body-and-sleeve-in-one idea, this portion of the waist being finished with sleeve caps instead of sleeves, doing away with the less desirable features of waists of this order. The lining is made with the high or collarless neck and with the full length or shorter sleeves. All-over lace may be used attractively for the yoke facing and sleeves, or chiffon over silk on the same shade as the dress material would be pretty. To outline the closing and thus emphasize this feature of the model, bands of silk of two or three shades darker than the crepe de Chine were used. Embroidered bands of net, too, are utilized a great deal.
     Among other materials desirable for this design developed as shown here are voile or net over silk, and the medium-sized woman will require one yard and three-quarters of material forty-four inches wide, with three-eighths yard of net forty-five inches wide for the yoke and sleeve facings, or five-eighths yard of all-over lace eighteen inches wide for the yoke facing and collar, and one yard and five-eighths for the guimpe sleeves. Cashmere, henrietta and other soft fabrics to match the skirt with which the waist is to be worn are also desirable for this model, and the trimming bands may be effectively embroidered or braided as suggested in the small illustration above.
     This waist (3767) was designed for women from thirty-two to forty-tow inches bust measure. Price fifteen cents.

     Especially graceful is the skirt (3715) shown in the semi-princess dress on the opposite page, it being a circular model and made with a drapery, as shown here. This drapery carries out the Russian idea of the waist to which it is attached, and is outlined with bands of silk like that on the waist. A band of this silk is also stitched to the lower edge of the skirt, which weights it, as well as giving additional charm to the design.
     As shown here the skirt was attached to the waist in semi-princess style and made of crepe de Chine, this material being especially pretty for a design on this order where soft fabrics are absolutely essential. The drapery is an attractive feature of the model, starting as it does at the lower edge of the back and running up in the front to give the effect of a tunic.
     While illustrated in the color plate as a dressy model, the skirt is one which may be developed very nicely for more general wear as suggested on this page. In this view the drapery was omitted and the model made of broad-cloth. The drapery could be used in this development if desired, and trimmed with the braid to match that on the waist.
     The construction of this skirt is particularly easy and would cause even the amateur home dressmaker no trouble in making. The model may be made with front seam if desired, making it a two-piece skirt or without according to the material used for its development. Some women will make the skirt with the inverted plait or gathers, while others will favor the habit back. With the inverted plait, the lower edge of the model measures about four yards, while with the habit back it measures about three yards and three-eighths. To make the one-piece skirt with the drapery four yards and one-half of material fifty inches wide will be required, or for the two-piece skirt without the drapery only three yards and five-eighths will be needed.
     Design 3715 would prove very appropriate for women from twenty to thirty-two inches waist measure. Price fifteen cents.

Designer November 1910, pg. 18,19
#4997

     Probably no type of gown designed has proved more popular or more becoming to the average woman than those built on the semi-princess lines, and unusually attractive variation of which is given here in No. 4997.
     The style is decidedly up-to-date and shows the high waistline effect which is again enjoying great popularity.
     The length of the skirt is a matter of personal taste, as it may be in sweep, round or even shorter length. The waist is mounted on a lining that is perforated for open neck, and faced with lace or similar material where the high neck fashion is desired. Provision is made for finishing the one-seam, leg-o’-mutton sleeves in shorter length, and with or without the puffs, which however, are decidedly effective in soft materials.
     The blouse portion shows the well-liked feature of being cut in one with the sleeve cap. The center front and center back portions that are attached to this portion, can be made of contrasting material.
     The skirt consists of a five-gored foundation that can be made with inverted plait or habit back and is lengthened by a circular flounce. The tunic is in three pieces.
     A woman of medium size will require five and seven-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, four and five-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch, or four and three-eighth yards of material forty-four inches wide will be required with three-quarters yard of net forty-five inches wide for yoke, collar and sleeves; three-eighths yard of material twenty inches wide for center portions, and three and three-eighth yards of banding. The foundation gores require two and three-eighth yards of twenty-inch, or one and one-quarter yards of material thirty-six inches wide.
     Design 4997, in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.

Designer October 1910, pg. 336, 337
#4936

     For the soft materials whether of silk or wool that are so universally worn the design No. 4936 is especially well adapted.
     The dress can be made in round or shorter length, and if intended for evening wear the lining may be cut out to form the open neck that is so generally worn on these occasions. The one-seam leg-o’-mutton sleeve is perforated for elbow length, which is decidedly effective combined with the open neck. The blouse is cut with the body and cap sleeves in one and owing to its prettily draped effect is excellent in sheer materials. The one-piece skirt is gathered at the waist and can be joined to a slightly circular flounce or fall free.
     A women of medium size will require for the dress with flounce five and three-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, or four and one-eighth yards of twenty-seven-inch, or four and one-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch, or three and one-quarter yards of material forty-four inches wide. The dress without flounce will require four and three-eighth yards of thirty-six-inch.
     Design 4936 in six sizes, from thirty-two to forty-two inches bust measure, price fifteen cents.