1908
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McCall’s November 1908, pg. 178

     Nos. 2387 – 2396 (15 cents each). – This suit is of royal-blue broadcloth trimmed with a fancy black silk braid. The coat is in the double-breasted semi-fitted style and fastens with two rows of bone buttons. The neck is finished by rounded lapels and rolling collar of the material. The sleeves are in the new close-fitting style and are plainly completed by a row of braid at the hands, though cuffs of the broadcloth can be used if preferred. The garment is cut in seven-eighths length and has a pointed outline at the bottom, though if desired it can be cut with the usual straight outline. The pattern is in 7 sizes, from 32 to 44 inches bust measure, and requires for size 36, 6 7/8 yards of material 27 inches wide, 4 3/4 yards 36 inches wide, 4 yards 44 inches wide or 3 1/4 and one-quarter yards 54 inches in width.
     The skirt (No. 2396) is cut with 12 gores and has a pointed panel effect in the center-front. It is handsomely trimmed with braid to correspond with the coat. The pattern is in 7 sizes, from 20 to 32 inches waist measure, and requires for size 26, 8 1/4 yards of material 22 inches wide, 6 3/4 yards 27 inches wide, 5 1/4 yards 36 inches wide or 4 1/8 yards 44 inches in width. The skirt measures 4 7/8 yards around the bottom.

Delineator April 1908, pg. 519, 520

     1958. Ladies’ Two-Piece Suit

     In this suit the skirt consists of nine gores plaited in groups, while the semi-fitted coat has the sleeves in one with the side-front and side-back portions seamed on the upper side. They are sometimes left in frill style finished with bands of contrasting material or terminating in reversed cuffs.

     Suit 1958 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches bust measure. For the medium size, without band and of goods without nap, the suit requires 10 1/2 yards 27 inches wide, with 1/2 yard of contrasting goods 20 inches wide for vest; for band, 1 3/8 yard 27 inches wide. Price, 15 cents.

 

Delineator November 1908, pg. 672

     2506. Ladies’ Princess Dress, in Sheath Effect
     It is a matter of great satisfaction to women that when the outer wrap is laid aside an entire costume is disclosed. This is why the princess, semi-princess, and over-blouse styles, or, in short, the one-piece dresses, lead all others in popularity. The graceful dress on this and the opposite page is adaptable for street wear, or developed in  one of the soft silks, such as messaline, satin Directoire, or satin chiffon taffeta, and having a medium sweep it becomes a stately gown for receptions or evening wear, for which the sleeves may terminate at the elbow or above.
     The dress consists of thirteen gores, which charmingly silhouette the figure, the sheath effect continuing in the skirt to flounce depth, where and additional width is allowed at the seams of the front gore sufficient for the skirt to attain a measurement of five yards and on eighth in sweep length. The simplicity of the design calls for little elaboration, though a trimming band of satin or chiffon velvet may outline the top of the gown and the lower edge of the sleeves. For a street gown of panama or cashmere it would be a good idea to have a coat of the same material, so that the usefulness of the dress can be prolonged into cold weather. The design is adaptable to those who measure from 32 to 46 inches bust, and is 15 cents.
     For a woman of medium size the dress, in round length and with sleeves, can be made of 6 1/2 yards of 44-inch good; with sweep and short sleeves, 7 yards of 44-inch goods, with 1/2 yard of lace 18 inches wide for yoke and collar or 1 yard for yoke, collar and facing sleeves and 3/8 yard of silk for trimming bands will be needed.

Designer march 1908, pg. 487, 495

     Ladies’ Waist No. 2978. This graceful design may be carried out with trimming applied in various ways. It is made with rounded yoke extending in straight lines on the shoulders. This may be made with all-over lace, embroidery, net, silk or of the waist material. When finishing the waist for low-neck evening wear the suggestion shown in the illustration may be followed to advantage. Silk mull and lace insertion were the materials used. The high-neck model shows a development in cotton voile with a darker shade of voile facing the embroidery trimming bands. Hand-embroidered swiss was used for the yoke. The back view suggests the use of natural-color linen lawn with contrasting wash material or of wool taffeta with silk.
     Ladies’ waist No. 2978 is in 6 sizes, from 32 to 42 inches bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch size requires 4 1/2 yards of material 22 inches wide, 3 yards 36 inches, or 2 3/8 yards 44 inches, with 5/8 yard all-over lace 18 inches.
     Ladies’ Nine-Gored Skirt No. 3015, In Medium Sweep or Round Length and In Corsage or Regulation Outline. The design gives the princess effect when combined with a bodice to form a “one-piece” dress or is effectively combined with a jacket. Regulation finish with a waistband may also be used. Silk, voile, worsted, light-weight cheviot, wool batiste and henrietta cloth are suitable materials. The model is of foulard silk in a dark and light shade of mauve.
     Ladies’ skirt No. 3015 is in 7 sizes, from 22 to 34 inches waist measure, and 39 to 56 inches hip measure price 15 cents. The 24-inch size requires 10 7/8 yards of material 22 inches wide, 5 5/8 yards 44 inches, or 4 3/8 yards 54 inches. The lower edge of the skirt in round length is 4 5/8 yards.

Delineator June 1908, pg. 910

     2094. Ladies’ Semi-Princess Dress
     This is an attractive design for development in cotton or wool voile or similar soft fabrics. With either of these the deep armholes, the square neck outline and the front closing edge may be finished with a fold of silk in a harmonizing shade, which may be applied at the left side of the front panel of the skirt seemingly in a continuation of the trimming-fold on the jumper. The belt may be of the same. When the dress is made of colored linen or cotton tissue, these trimming bands may be of narrow filet insertion showing a touch of color in harmony with the dress material. The jumper and skirt are attached in semi-princes style under the belt at the waistline. The nine-gored skirt is plaited all around, and the lower edge in the medium sizes measures about 4 1/2 yards with plaits drawn out.
     The design is also suitable for dress linen, veiling fabrics, chiffon taffeta, shantung and pongee. It is extremely pretty in the new chambrays and mercerized ginghams trimmed with bands of embroidery insertion or with stitched bias folds of white linen. It is also an excellent model for the light colored Sumer silks, worn with guimpes, net or all-over lace. Pompadour ribbons applied as skirt borders and waist decorations make a delightful trimming for a dress of this character.
     As here illustrated, this smart dress is of cedar-brown voile with bands of brown and white taffeta. The guimpe is of blond colored embroidered batiste and the dress is worn with a hat of blond leghorn trimmed with brown velvet and tea roses.
     Where one makes use of brown in Summer it is not an extravagance to have one’s shoes, hosiery, gloves and even handkerchief borders in harmony with the gown. Attention to minor details of this kind adds little to the expense.
     Dress 2094 is in 6 sizes from 32 to 42 inches bust measure.  For the medium size, it requires 11 7/8 yards of material 24 inches wide, or 10 1/8 yards 27 inches wide, or 5 5/8 yards 44 inches. Price, 15 cents.

Designer April 1908, pg. 589, 591

     Ladies’ Tucked Semi-Princess Dress No. 3051, In Round or Shorter Length, Having a Skirt With Straight Upper Part Lengthened by a Straight Flounce (adapted to flouncing, bordered materials or other fabrics). This attractive and simply made dress is suitable for India silk, lawn, embroidery flouncing, mull, shantung and voile. The waist is made with groups of small tucks in the front and back and may be made with high or low neck. The skirt consists of two straight flounce portions, the lower being gathered and attached to the upper, which is tucked to about yoke depth. The model is of bordered lawn with lace.
     Ladies’ dress 3051 is in 5 sizes, from 32 to 40 inches bust measure, price 15 cents. The 36-inch size requires for a dress of flouncing 9 5/8 yards of material 24 inches wide; or , of plain material, 9 1/2 yards 24 inches, or 5 1/2 yards 44, with 3/8 yard net 45 inches and 3 5/8 yards insertion.  

Designer April 1908, pg. 586, 589

     Ladies’ Dress No. 3049, In Round or Shorter Length, Having a Blouse-Waist and a One-Piece Side-Plaited Skirt with Straight Lower Edge (adapted to bordered materials, flouncing or other fabrics). This dress, developed in heliotrope spotted lawn and of dark blue taffeta with gray border, is made to have the border in each design at the lower portions of the blouse, sleeves and skirt. In one case it also forms the revers and in the other the chemisette. The latter may be made of borderie Anglaise, finely tucked lawn or lace. Narrow tucks in the front of the blouse are stitched in yoke depth and in the center back from top to waistline. Hooks and eyes form the closing which is between the meeting of the two center tucks. Either long or shorter sleeves may be used. The side plaits of the skirt, which is in one piece, are stitched to hip depth, and the meeting of the last two plaits in the back conceals the closing.

Delineator September 1908, pg. 314

     2336. Ladies’ Ten-Gored Jumper Dress
     Women will find the same delightful comfort in the princess jumper dress for the cool days of early Autumn that they have in the days of torrid weather. The material employed will be a little different, and a coat of the same will increase the usefulness of the frock. Such a dress as this one is remarkably becoming to those figures whose bust measure is between 32 and 44 inches. The gores, joined in tuck seams, are on the perfect shaping that gives style to the figure, and gradually attain greater width, so that the lower edge of the skirt is about 4 yards around. Net is suggested for the guimpe, as it is fashionable, and can be had in the plain filet mesh, or the round mesh, or with a small figure. A guimpe  in the same sizes as the dress will require about 2 7/8 of net or lace 18 inches wide for the sleeves, collar and yoke-facing. It can be worn with dresses of taffeta, foulard and pongee, which are in 27 and 36 inch width, requiring for the woman of medium size 8 1/2 yards and 6 7/8 yards respectively; and in 44-inch width 5 1/4 yards. The closing is at the left side in front. (15 cents.)

Delineator December 1908, pg. 892

     In gowns having the high waistline, the top of the skirt if often tucked, but if the gown is of chiffon, or anything of this nature, the gathered top permits the soft folds of the material to cling to the figure and follow the outline becomingly. In this gown (2523) the skirt consists of 7 gores and may have a medium sweep or be in round length, and the lower edge is about 4 1/4 yards around. The full waist may also be tucked or gathered to the circular yoke of lace or embroidered net, which for evening wear can be cut to the width of a band, thus giving the low, round neck; the short puff sleeves would be in keeping with this development. The high-necked dress usually has the pointed standing collar, and the full-length, almost tight sleeves are finished with a ruffle of lace or a full plaiting of net or chiffon that falls over the hands. For afternoon or semi-ceremonious affairs, a good idea is to have the sleeves in elbow length and the Dutch neck. The belt defines the high waistline, and is shaped to fit the figure perfectly, being of the yoke and sleeve material. Satin messaline, satin crêpe, mirage, chiffon, satin taffeta, suesine and silk voile, and soft wool fabrics are adaptable for evening and social affairs. The design is in 5 sizes, suitable for those who measure from 32 to 40 inches bust, and is 15 cents.  For a woman of medium size, the dress with sweep and low neck will require 11 3/8 yards of material 20 inches wide, 6 1/2 yards of material 36 inches wide, or 5 1/2 yards 44 inches wide; for dress in round length 11 yards 20 inches wide, with a 1 3/4 of lace 18 inches wide for the plain yoke, standing collar and full-length sleeves.

Delineator November 1908, pg. 670

     2459. Ladies’ Semi-Princess Dress, with high waistline
     The long, narrow, sheath skirt characterizes the majority of gowns that are intended for afternoon affairs, receptions and evening functions. These gowns embody other features of the Directoire period, the body being also in harmony with such developments. For one of the most graceful gowns of this type the illustration in color opposite is a striking example. It is here shown as an evening gown, having the chemisette cut low for the open neck, the undersleeves being omitted, with draped cap sleeves falling over the upper part of the arm only. The bodice is draped in surplice fashion, the two sections at each side crossing far over to the sides, both back and front, and at the left side the narrow girdle terminates in a rosette, with long ends which may be fringed or finished with a bead or silk tassel. The three-piece skirt is joined to the high-waisted bodice, and a panel section of a different material is inserted at each side between the front gore and the joining of the back gores. In a dress of satin liberty, satin Directoire, or any other dressy silk, this panel at each side could be of self-color net or embroidered or printed chiffon, which will emphasize the sheath style and suggest an harmonious trimming effect. A dress of voile, cashmere, or other fine woolen fabric might be preferred with two-seam sleeves of the same, or one-seam sleeves in mitten style made of tucked chiffon or net. Such a development could be trimmed with bands of satin outlining the surplice sections of the bodice, the over-sleeves and edges of the openings at each side. The skirt is about 3 5/8 yards wide at the lower edge, and may be in medium sweep or round length. It is designed for those who measure from 32 to 42 inches bust, each size being 15 cents.
     For a woman of medium size the design can be reproduced out of 9 1/2 yards of bordered goods 32 inches wide, with 1 7/8 yard of tucking 18 inches wide for high-necked yoke, collar and sleeves, or 1/2f yard of lace for low-necked yoke. If satin is used for trimming bands, it will require one yard 20 inches wide.