1890s Under Dress
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Petticoat 1895



– Black grosgrain silk was selected for the development of this petticoat, which has a smooth-fitting front-gore, a smooth-fitting gore at each side, and a full back-breadth that is gathered at the top, all the parts being sewed to a yoke of moderate depth. A ruffle of the silk with a pinked edge decorates the lower edge. Petticoats of this kind may be made of silk, muslin, cambric or lawn, and one or more ruffles of the material or of lace or embroidery may be used for decoration.

The pattern used in shaping is No. 7208, price 1s. or 25cents.


from Delineator January 1895, pg.88

Petticoat 1896


No. 8392. Taffeta silk was chosen for making this dressy petticoat-skirt, which, because of its deep flounce, retains the stylish flare at the foot without unnecessary width at the waist. The skirt consists of a front-gore, two gores at each side and a back-breadth. It is fitted smoothly at the top of the front and sides by darts and the skirt is lengthened by a bias flounce, the upper edge of which is turned under and shirred on a cord. To the lower edge of the flounce is sewed a narrow, bias ruffle that holds the skirt out well from the figure and forms a dainty finish. The flounce is ornamented by a deep, bias trimming flounce that is turned under at the top to form a self-heading and shirred on cords at the top and hemmed narrowly at the bottom; the trimming flounce is decorated with two silk ruchings, the whole arrangement increasing the flaring effect and making quite an elaborate foot-trimming. The top of the petticoat is finished with an under-facing, which forms a casing for tapes that are tacked back of the darts in the side-gores and drawn out through openings made at the center of the back, thus regulating the fullness about the waist and avoiding the need of a placket. The lower edge of the petticoat-skirt measures three yards and a fourth round in the medium sizes.

Silk, sateen, mohair and alpaca will be appropriate for petticoats of this style, and ribbon, beading, insertion and lace edging may be chosen for decoration.

We have pattern No. 8392 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure. To make the petticoat-skirt with the trimming flounce for a lady of medium size, will need twelve yards of material twenty inches side, or eight yards and an eighth twenty-seven inches wide, or seven yards and a fourth thirty-six inches wide. The petticoat-skirt without the rimming flounce requires seven yards and five-eights twenty inches wide, or five yards and three-fourths twenty-seven inches wide, or four yards and three-fourths thirty-six inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.


from Delineator June, 1896 pg.670

Ladies' Petticoat-Skirt Trimmings

No. 1105. Any of these three trimmings may be arranged on any style of petticoat-skirt. The trimmings are illustrated made of silk. One trimming is a flounce shaped in points at the lower edge and drawn by four cord-stirrings at the top ; it is sewed on a little below the knee and extends to within a short distance of the lower edge of the petticoat-skirt over a decoration of two frills of lace edging applied to the bottom of the petticoat-skirt. A frill of similar edging headed by three rows of ribbon follows the lower edge of the flounce and rosettes are set on the upper row between the points.

Another trimming is a flounce shirred on one cord at the top and shaped at the bottom in points that are prettily pinked and reach nearly to the bottom of the petticoat-skirt, which is decorated with a side-plaiting of silk pinked at the lower edge. A triple box-plaited silk ruche trims the flounce near the top, adding to both the decorative effect and the flare.

The flounce in the other trimming consists of long tabs that widen toward the bottom and are separated by bands of wide ribbon-run beading. It is sewed smoothly to the petticoat-skirt under a row of ribbon-run beading, the ribbon being formed in rosette bows at intervals. The ribbon in each upright row of beading is arranged in two loops and an end over a lace frill at the lower edge of the flounce. The lace on the flounce is held out well by a bias ruffle of the goods joined to the lower edge of the petticoat-skirt, the ruffle showing just a trifle below the lace.

No silk is considered too rich for the petticoat-skirt of to-day, and trimmings of lace, insertion, ribbon, rosettes and beading may be arranged in any desired manner.

Pattern No. 1105 is in one size only. Quantities for these trimmings are not given because the amount required varies according to the widths of the petticoat-skirts to which they are applied. Price of pattern, 5d. or 10 cents.

from Delineator June, 1896 pg.671