1880s Over Dress
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LATEST STYLE OF MANTELET: WITH SUPPLEMENT. BY EMILY H. MAY.

We give here an illustration of the newest and most stylish of the recent Mantelets: one suitable either for late spring, or for summer wear. On a SUPPLEMENT, folded in with this number, we give full-size patterns, from which to cut; and we add below, in order the better understand how to make it up, reduced diagrams of this beautiful wrap. The pattern, as will be seen, consists of two pieces, viz:

No. 1. Half Of Mantelet Proper.
No. 2. Half Of The Plesse Front.

This plesse front, we will add, is made of tulle or net. The letters show how the seams are put together to fit the neck, and the dotted lines on the front; two plaits are laid to fit into the waist. This plesse front is plaited, and then adjusted from the neck to its place on the mantelet.

Two rows of guipure or Spanish lace trim the edge of the wrap, and a narrower lace edges the plesse from the neck all round, finishing the tabs. A double row forms a ruching for the neck. A bow of satin or ottoman ribbon, with two long loops-and-ends, is placed at the waist.

Passementerie ornaments are added at the ends of the plesse front, also a passementerie fringe of drop-tassels is arranged between the fullness of the lace around the mantelet.

from Peterson's May 1884 pgs 449-450